🌿 Tomato

Moist, deep, fertile, well-drained soil (ideally a loam) enriched with well-decomposed compost or aged manure. Maintain good aeration/structure; avoid compaction and heavy, waterlogged clays (use raised beds and organic matter to improve drainage). Keep soil evenly moist but not saturated. Ideal pH: slightly acidic to neutral, around 6.0-7.0 (optimum often quoted ~6.2-6.8).

Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost. Use a sterile sowing mix; sow to a depth of 3-6 mm (1/8-1/4 in), maintain even humidity (not soggy), and keep conditions warm for germination (around 21-27°C / 70-80°F). Provide strong light once seedlings emerge. Pot when true leaves develop. Soak for 7-10 days, then transplant outdoors only when the risk of frost has passed and nights are regularly mild (warm soil). Plant deeply: bury the stem up to the first leaves to encourage rooting and obtain a more robust plant. Space plants about 45-60 cm (18-24 in) apart (more for vigorous indeterminate varieties), with 60-90 cm (24-36 in) between rows; provide staking/caging when planting. In climates with long, warm seasons, seeds can be sown outdoors after the last frost, once the soil is warm; sow finely to a depth of 3-6 mm and thin out to final spacing.

Wherever possible, fertilization should be based on a soil analysis. Before planting, incorporate well-decomposed compost and, if necessary, a balanced fertilizer (e.g. 5-10-10 or similar) mixed with topsoil. Avoid high-nitrogen programs, which promote leaf growth and delay flowering. When transplanting, place a small amount of balanced fertilizer in the planting area (avoiding direct contact with the roots) or use a dilute starter solution; do not apply too much nitrogen. Apply side-band fertilizer after the first fruits have set (or at first flowering in less fertile soils), then repeat every 3-4 weeks during harvest with a fertilizer richer in potassium than in nitrogen (generally 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 at moderate rates). Water abundantly after fertilization. For containers, use a controlled-release fertilizer at planting and/or fertilize with a low-dose balanced soluble fertilizer every 1-2 weeks, as nutrients are rapidly leached out. Maintain regular humidity; calcium problems such as flower rot are mainly linked to irregular watering, although adequate calcium levels in the soil and an appropriate pH are helpful.

Mulch tomatoes once the soil has warmed up (usually after transplanting and once plants are established) to conserve moisture, suppress weeds and reduce soil splash that can spread disease. Apply 5 to 8 cm of clean organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, dried grass clippings (in thin layers) or compost; keep the mulch a few centimetres from the stem to reduce rot and pest problems. Maintain even coverage throughout the season and top up as the mulch decomposes. In cooler climates and for early planting, black plastic or landscape fabric can be used to warm the soil, then add organic mulch to prevent overheating and reduce evaporation.

Provide support at the time of planting to avoid disturbing the roots later on. Use a sturdy stake (approx. 1.5-2.5 m for indeterminate varieties; shorter for determinate varieties), tomato spiral, cage or trellis/cord system. Tie the main stem to the support as it grows, using flexible ties (strips of fabric, horticultural tape or string) in loose 8-shaped loops to prevent girdling; add ties every 20-30 cm of new growth. In the case of trellis or twine, form 1-2 main branches along the twine and cut/tie them regularly; keep the stem straight and remove lower leaves that touch the ground. Check ties frequently and loosen/replace as stems thicken.

Prune mainly by removing suckers ("gourmands"): pinch or cut off side shoots that form in the leaf axils between the main stem and a leaf, especially on indeterminate-stem tomatoes (vines). Form 1 or 2 main stems on a stake or string and regularly remove new suckers while they are still small. Remove leaves that touch the ground and, as the plants grow, gradually remove the lowest leaves to improve air circulation and reduce soil splashes; avoid stripping too many leaves at once to avoid sunburn. For determinate (bush) tomatoes, pruning is limited to removing diseased/damaged leaves or those in contact with the soil, as removing a large number of suckers can reduce yield. Towards the end of the season, indeterminate plants can be topped (removing the growth tip) to direct energy towards ripening existing fruit. Prune in dry weather and use clean tools to reduce the spread of disease.