🌿 Tomato

Deep, fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter (incorporate well-decomposed compost). Keep soil friable and well aerated; avoid compacted or waterlogged sites (raised beds are useful in heavy clay). Maintain regular humidity and mulch to reduce drying out and temperature variations. The best pH is slightly acidic to almost neutral (approx. 6.0-6.8). Ensure sufficient calcium content and good drainage to reduce the risk of blossom-end rot; avoid excess fresh manure/high-nitrogen amendments that favor leaf growth at the expense of fruit.

Sow under cover 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost. - Sowing: Use sterile seed potting soil in a tray/terrine or modules. Sow at a depth of 0.5-1 cm, cover lightly and maintain regular humidity. - Temperature and germination: Maintain a temperature of 20-25°C for best germination; provide strong light as soon as seedlings emerge. - Transplanting and repotting: When seedlings have 1 or 2 true leaves, transplant into individual pots. Re-pot if roots fill the pot before planting. - Hardening off: Gradually acclimatize plants to outdoor conditions for 7 to 10 days. - Planting: Once all risk of frost has been ruled out and nights are regularly mild (soil ideally ≥15°C), plant in the open ground or greenhouse. - Planting depth (important for tomatoes): Bury the stem up to the first leaves (or plant sideways in a shallow trench) to encourage the appearance of additional roots and obtain a more robust plant. - Spacing/support: Space plants 60 to 90 cm apart (and 80 to 100 cm between rows) and provide sturdy staking/trellising; beefheart varieties produce large fruit and need solid support. - Care after planting: Water and mulch well when the soil is warm; maintain regular watering to reduce fruit problems.

Before planting, incorporate plenty of well-decomposed compost or aged manure. If the soil is nutrient-poor, incorporate a balanced pre-planting fertilizer (e.g. 5-5-5 or 10-10-10) at the rates indicated on the label. When planting, avoid fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, which promote leaf growth to the detriment of flowers and fruit. Once the first fruits are born, proceed with a side-dressing of a tomato or "fruit" fertilizer with low N and higher P and K content (generally in the 5-10-10 range), then repeat every 3-4 weeks until the main harvest (or use a controlled-release tomato fertilizer once at planting time and again at mid-season). For container-grown oxheart tomatoes, use a diluted liquid tomato fertilizer more frequently (often once a week or every two weeks), as nutrients are leached out more quickly. Maintain soil pH between slightly acidic and neutral, and ensure regular watering; calcium absorption depends on regular humidity. If blossom-end rot has been a problem, use a calcium-containing fertilizer and avoid wide variations in watering rather than applying too many calcium products.

Mulching tomatoes, once the soil has warmed up and the plants are established, conserves moisture, eliminates weeds and reduces soil splash (which can spread leaf diseases). Use a 5-8 cm layer of clean straw, shredded leaves, leaf mold or finished compost; keep the mulch a few centimeters from the stem to avoid crown rot and slug/disease problems. In cooler climates or for earlier warming, black plastic or biodegradable film can be used at planting time, with a drip irrigation system underneath; replace mulch with organic mulch or cover as temperatures rise. Fill in the mulch as it settles in during the season, and keep it in place briefly if you need the soil to warm up after prolonged cool, wet weather.

Provide solid support when planting (solid stake, spiral stake, heavy tomato cage, or trellis/tortillage system such as a Florida weave). Form 1 to 2 main stems and tie the stem to the support as it grows, spacing the ties every 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 in). Use soft, wide ties (fabric, horticultural tape or twine) and make loose 8-shaped loops to prevent girdling; adjust/retain as stems thicken. Keep the main stem straight and tie fruiting branches if necessary to prevent them breaking under the weight of large fruit.

Prune mainly by removing side shoots (suckers) ("gourmand pruning") that form in the leaf axils, especially on indeterminate beefheart varieties grown on a stake or trellis. Shape 1-2 main stems and pinch out other suckers when small to improve air circulation and direct energy towards the fruit. Remove the lowest leaves touching the ground and any yellow or diseased foliage to reduce the risk of mildew; keep tools and hands clean and avoid working on plants when they are wet. At the end of the season, you can top the plant (pinch off the head) 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost to help the remaining fruit ripen. Avoid heavy defoliation - leave enough foliage to avoid sunburn.