🌳 Medlar

Grow medlar in fertile, moisture-retaining but well-drained soil. It is adaptable and tolerant of a wide range of soil types, including heavy clays and chalk/limestone, but waterlogged or very poorly drained sites should be avoided. Improve structure and water balance by incorporating organic matter (compost or well-decomposed manure) before planting, and apply organic mulch to conserve soil moisture. Likes neutral to slightly alkaline soils, although slightly acidic soils are generally tolerated if drainage is good.

medlar is most reliable when grafted (seedlings are variable and do not correspond to named cultivars), but can be grown from seed for rootstocks or breeding. From seed (for rootstocks or propagation) - Seed collection: Harvest ripe fruit in late autumn. Remove pits (seeds), clean all pulp and surface dry. - Dormancy/stratification: Seeds are physiologically dormant and generally need a warm period followed by a cold one. - When to sow (simplest method): Sow fresh seeds outdoors, in pots or in a nursery bed, in autumn, so that they undergo natural winter cooling. - Stratification (for spring sowing or to improve/standardize germination): Mix cleaned seeds with moist (not wet) sand or vermiculite in a ventilated container. Warm stratify for 2-3 months at ~15-20°C, then cold stratify for 3-4 months at 1-5°C. Sow immediately after cold stratification. - Sowing depth/medium: Sow 1-2 cm deep in a draining medium (sandy loam or seed compost with gravel). Maintain regular, but not soggy, humidity. - Germination: Often slow and irregular; many germinate in the first spring after stratification, but some may not emerge until the second spring. - Seedling care: Transplant/emport seedlings when large enough to handle; grow for 1-2 years before planting out. Do not weed and avoid drought stress. Planting young trees (grafted or seedlings) - Timing: Plant bare-root trees during the dormant period (late autumn to early spring), when the soil is workable. Containerized plants can be planted almost year-round, avoiding frost or waterlogged conditions. - Location: Full sun is preferable for flowering and fruiting; a sheltered location helps protect the bloom. - Soil: Deep, fertile, well-drained soil is ideal; it tolerates heavier, moderately alkaline soils, but does not like prolonged waterlogging. - Planting method: Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots; plant at the same depth as the previous crop. If the plant is grafted, keep the grafting point above ground level. Close up well and water. - Spacing: As a general rule, leave a spacing of 4 to 6 m between trees (more if the rootstock is vigorous) to allow the crown to reach maturity. - Establishment: Stake exposed sites, mulch to conserve moisture (do not mulch the trunk) and water during dry spells in the first two growing seasons.

Loquat (Mespilus germanica) generally feeds very little. In reasonably fertile soil, apply a 5-8 cm mulch of compost or well-decomposed garden manure to the root zone every year in late winter or early spring (keep it a few cm from the trunk); this maintains organic matter and provides a slow release of nutrients. Use granular fertilizer only if growth is weak, leaves are small or pale, or if a soil analysis indicates low fertility. If necessary, apply a moderate dose of a balanced fruit tree fertilizer (or a general balanced fertilizer) in early spring when buds swell, distribute evenly under the canopy (not against the trunk) and water in case of drought. Avoid heavy or repeated applications of nitrogen. Do not apply high nitrogen fertilizers after midsummer, as this can promote late, soft growth, reduce flowering and fruiting, and increase the risk of winter damage. For established trees, fertilize sparingly and adjust according to vigor, crop performance and soil test results; over-feeding can reduce fruit quality by encouraging excessive leaf growth.

Apply a 5-8 cm layer of organic mulch (well-decomposed compost, leaf mold or aged bark/wood chips) over the entire root zone to conserve moisture, reduce weed competition and regulate soil temperature. Mulch in spring, once the soil has warmed up; top up in autumn/winter if necessary. Keep mulch 10-15 cm from the trunk to prevent crown and collar rot and discourage rodents. Maintain an even layer rather than a deep pile, renew mulch as it decomposes and avoid fresh manure or other high-nitrogen or unfinished materials that can cause excessive soft growth or nutrient imbalance.

For young plants

medlar requires only light pruning once established. It flowers and fruits mainly on the short shoots of older wood, so heavy pruning reduces flowering and harvesting. Flowering period: - Late winter to early spring (during the dormant period, before budburst): main pruning. - Summer (after flowering/early to midsummer): optional light pruning to control vigorous shoots and maintain shape. - As far as possible, avoid hard pruning in autumn/winter during wet periods; make clean cuts and remove stubs to reduce the risk of disease. Formative pruning (first 3-4 years): - Form a small tree with an open center or a multi-stemmed bush with 3 to 5 well-spaced main branches. - Remove competing main branches and upright shoots that crowd the center of the tree. - Select outward-facing lateral branches to build an airy framework; keep shortening cuts to a minimum. Routine pruning (mature trees): - Remove dead, damaged or diseased wood, as well as branches that cross or rub. - Thin overcrowded areas to improve light and air circulation, but avoid cutting the many fruiting shoots. - Remove vigorous vertical shoots if they shade the canopy; cut them back originally or shorten them in summer to reduce regrowth. Renovation/pruning control: - If the tree is becoming crowded or unproductive, renew it gradually by removing a small number of the oldest branches to a suitable younger lateral branch, over a period of 2 to 3 dormant seasons (not all at the same time). Other points: - Remove basal suckers, especially on grafted trees. - For formed forms (espalier/fan), make minimal cuts to the framework in winter; in summer, tie back extension shoots and shorten side branches to a few leaves to encourage spur formation.